Exercise Fitting the Frame to the subject

Part one: The frame is designed to help you use your viewfinder. Your viewfinder is an extension of your eye. These exercise’s are created to help you compose well designed and well balanced photographs.

Fitting the frame to the subject. For this exercise you needed something clear in apperance and compact in shape. It also had to be accessible from to close to and from a distance.

I decided to use a small empty church which had lots of detail.I used my tripod for this exercise as it would help me reduce any camera shake.

First Photograph:

The first photograph had to show the subject in the entire viewfinder. You were advised to photograph it as you normally would, without taking too much time to consider the composition.

The first photograph was taken using:

Shutter Speed: 1/25sec

ISO: 64

Aperture: F/8

Distance: Focal length 12.3mm (equivalent to 73mm on a 35mm film camera)

Second Photograph:

The second photograph advised you to move in and around, making sure the the subject fitted in the frame as tightly as possible. Up to the edges if possible.

The second photograph was taken using:

Shutter Speed: 1/105sec

ISO: 64

Aperture: F/9

Distance: Focal length 14.6mm (equivalent to 86mm on a 35mm film camera)

Third Photograph:

The third photograph was to be taken with no edges of the subject showing.

The third photograph was taken using:

Shutter Speed: 1/80sec

ISO: 64

Aperture: F/10

Distance: Focal length 20.2mm (equivalent to 119mm on a 35mm film camera)

Fourth Photograph:

The fourth photograph was to be taken so the subject only occupies a small part of the frame. Either a quarter or less and to make a compossion that stresses the surroundings.

The fourth photograph was taken using:

Shutter Speed: 1/180sec

ISO: 64

Aperture: F/6.4

Distance: Focal length 5mm (equivalent to 30mm on a 35mm film camera)

After taking the series of photographs, you then had to crop a selected photograph. You were advised to move the croping tool in and around the picture, looking for alternative possibilities.

I decided to crop the fourth photograph. It was taken from a distance and had other gravestones in the background. This meant I would be able to make some interesting cropped photographs.

The first crop I did was a vertical rectangle.I focused mainly on the building. I liked the contrast between the blue sky and the green grass. I wanted to include as much as I could so I used a long rectangle to crop it.

Second Photograph:

For this photograph, I wanted to use a long horizontal rectangular box. Almost a panoramic view. I liked how you can see the gravestones in the left hand corner. I wanted to include these in the cropped photograph.

Third Photograph:

For this crop, I wanted a square. I wanted to focus on the building and make it the central focal poing whilst still having some background and the contrast between the blue sky and the green grass.

Overall Opinion:

I really enjoyed this exercise. My favourite part would be the cropping. I liked how I was able to play around with the cropping tool to come up with interesting perspectives that I wouldn’t have seen the first time around.

My favourite out the the final cropped images would have to be the second photograph. The long horizontal rectangle makes the image look like a panoramic view. I like how it shows the gravestones in the background. I also like the colour of the building against the blue sky and green grass. It really stands out.

Excerise Panning with different shutters speeds

This exercise was similar to the previous exercise (shutter speeds).

You had to find something which moved several times or continuously, such as water or someone riding a bike.

I decided to keep the same object which was my clock that had a continuous moving pendulum.

You were advised to either take your camera off of the tripod or to loosen the tripod head, in order to swing the camera whilst you panned. You need to keep the moving subject in the middle of the frame .

I decided to still use my tripod as this would enable me to keep the moving subject in the middle of my frame, however, by loosening the head of the tripod, I would be able to swing the camera.

I began taking the series of photographs with the slowest shutter speed and went up to the fastest shutter speed.

I set my camera on the Shutter speed priority setting. This allowed me to manually change my shutter speed, whilst letting the camera automatically change the ISO and Aperture.

First Photograph:

The first photograph was taken using

Shutter speed: 0.8sec

ISO: 80

Aperture: F/10

I panned the camera whilst using the tripod. As you can see, using 0.8sec shutter speed, the clock and the background is completely burred.

Second Photograph:

The Second photograph was taken using

Shutter speed: 1/2sec

ISO: 100

Aperture: F/10

I panned the camera whilst using the tripod. As you can see, using 1/2sec shutter speed, the clock and the background is still blurred, however, the numbers and the shape of the pendulum are becoming more prominent.

Third Photograph:

The Third photograph was taken using

Shutter speed: 1/3sec

ISO: 160

Aperture: F/10

I panned the camera whilst using the tripod. As you can see, using 1/3sec shutter speed, the clock and the background is still burred.

Fourth Photograph:

The Fourth photograph was taken using

Shutter speed: 1/4sec

ISO: 200

Aperture: F/10

I panned the camera whilst using the tripod. As you can see, using 1/4sec shutter speed, the clock and the background is still burred, however, you can see the numbers and the pendulum becoming more prominent.

Fifth Photograph:

The Fifth photograph was taken using

Shutter speed: 1/5sec

ISO: 80

Aperture: F/5.2

I panned the camera whilst using the tripod. As you can see, using 1/4sec shutter speed, the clock is more defined. The numbers are clearer. The pendulum still shows movement, however, you can see the design coming through.

Sixth Photograph:

The Sixth photograph was taken using

Shutter speed: 1/10sec

ISO: 180

Aperture: F/5.2

I panned the camera whilst using the tripod. As you can see, using 1/10sec shutter speed, the clock is more defined and the pendulum is a lot more clearer.

Seventh Photograph:

The Seventh photograph was taken using

Shutter speed: 1/15sec

ISO: 180

Aperture: F/5.2

I panned the camera whilst using the tripod. As you can see, using 1/15sec shutter speed, the clock and numbers are more defined and clearer. The pendulum still shows movement.

Eighth Photograph:

The Eighth photograph was taken using

Shutter speed: 1/40sec

ISO: 400

Aperture: F/5.2

I panned the camera whilst using the tripod. As you can see, using 1/40sec shutter speed, the clock is in full focus. The pendulum is frozen in movement. The bird on the pendulum is still blurred and not fully clear.

Ninth Photograph:

The Ninth photograph was taken using

Shutter speed: 1/60sec

ISO: 400

Aperture: F/5.2

I panned the camera whilst using the tripod. As you can see, using 1/60sec shutter speed, the clock and the pendulum is in full focus. The details are defined and even though I panned the camera, the movement has been frozen without blur.

From the two series, Shutter speed and Panning with shutter speeds, you were asked to choose your favourite photograph. You were asked which version you liked the best. The sharp, frozen image, or the image with some slight blurring.

After looking through my photographs, my favourite would have to be the Seventh photograph from the Panning series.

I like how the clock and numbers are in focus and are defined, however, I like how the pendulum is showing movement. It gives the photographs some sort of speed.

Overall Opinion:

I really enjoyed this exercise, as well as the first Shutter Speed exercise. It taught me how to use the different shutter speeds in order to create a photograph whith movement. I will be more confident when having to take a photograph which shows movement as I will be able to use the correct setting in order to take the desired image.

Other Photographs:

Whilst taking the photographs of the waterfall for the previous exercise, Shutter speeds, I happened to see a duck swimming along the water. It was also flying around along the water. I realised that this would be a perfect subject for showing panning with shutter speeds. As I wasnt fully ready for the duck moving, some of the photographs arent that great, however they do show movement and panning, therefore I have decided to add them .

First Photograph:

The first photograph was taken using

Shutter speed: 1/10sec

ISO: 64

Aperture: F/5.6

I panned the camera whilst using the tripod. As you can see, using 1/10sec shutter speed, the background and the duck are completely blurred.

Second Photograph:

The Second photograph was taken using

Shutter speed: 1/6sec

ISO: 64

Aperture: F/10

I panned the camera whilst using the tripod. As you can see, using 1/6sec shutter speed, the duck is blurred as it shows movement, so is the waterfall.

Third Photograph:

The Third photograph was taken using

Shutter speed: 01/110sec

ISO: 200

Aperture: F/5.6

I panned the camera whilst using the tripod. As you can see, using 1/110sec shutter speed, the ducks movement is frozen.

Fourth Photograph:

The Fourth photograph was taken using

Shutter speed: 1/20sec

ISO: 200

Aperture: F/5.6

I panned the camera whilst using the tripod. As you can see, using 1/20sec shutter speed, the ducks movement is caught in motion. The top part is blurred, yet the bottom feet section is almost in focus. The one thing I would change about this photograph is the fact that the duck isn’t in the middle of the frame. I’m disappointed that I was unable to capture the movement in the middle of the frame as this would have made a brilliant photograph. The movement of the duck would have been captured whilst it was in mid-flight.

Being able to photograph the duck at the same time as photographing the waterfall, enabled me to realise that movement is around us all the time. I didn’t expect to capture a moving duck, and if I was given a second chance, I would have positioned myself better, in order to capture the duck more central in my frame, however, this has taught me that photographing subjects such as animals, isn’t always easy. They don’t stay still and there movements can be either slow or fast. This definitely tested my shutter speed and panning skills.

 

Exercise Shutter Speeds

This exercise was designed to help you understand shutter speed.Understanding how shutter speed can affect your final photograph. A fast shutter speed will keep your image sharp, where as a slower shutter speed will show the movement.

For this exercise, you were asked to find something that moves several times or continuously, such as water or someone riding a bike.

I chose my clock which has a moving pendulum. I set my tripod up and angled the camera so the clock fitted central in the frame.

I began taking the series of photographs with the slowest shutter speed and went up to the fastest shutter speed.

I set my camera on the Shutter speed setting. This allowed me to manually change my shutter speed, whilst letting the camera automatically change the ISO and Aperture.

First Photograph:

The first photograph was taken using

Shutter Speed: 0.8sec

ISO: 64

Aperture: F/10

As you can see, using the slowest shutter speed will deliberately show the movement. The pendulum is blurred and you can hardly see the outline of the circular pendulum.

Second Photograph:

The second photograph was taken using

Shutter Speed: 1/2sec

ISO: 64

Aperture: F/10

As you can see, using 1/2sec shutter speed, the pendulum is still blurred, however, you can begin seeing the outline of the circular pendulum.

Third Photograph:

The third photograph was taken using

Shutter Speed: 1/4sec

ISO: 80

Aperture: F/10

As you can see, using 1/4sec shutter speed, still shows the movement, however, you are beginning to see the outline of the circular pendulum and the pattern on it.

Fourth Photograph:

The fourth photograph was taken using

Shutter Speed: 1/10sec

ISO: 125

Aperture: F/5.2

As you can see, using 1/10sec shutter speed, still shows the movement, however, you are able to see the outline of the circular pendulum and the pattern more clearly.

Fifth Photograph:

The fifth photograph was taken using

Shutter Speed: 1/15sec

ISO: 200

Aperture: F/5.2

As you can see, using 1/15sec shutter speed, still shows the movement. Unlike the previous photograph, this one shows the movement more, yet the shutter speed is faster which means the image should be frozen more, not show more movement.

Sixth Photograph:

The sixth photograph was taken using

Shutter Speed: 1/20sec

ISO: 400

Aperture: F/5.2

As you can see, using 1/20sec shutter speed, the pendulum is frozen in movement. However, there is a slight blur.

Seventh Photograph:

 

The seventh photograph was taken using

Shutter Speed: 1/60sec

ISO: 250

Aperture: F/5.2

As you can see, using 1/60sec shutter speed, the pendulum is frozen in movement. There is only a slight blur around the edges of the circle.

Eighth Photograph:

The eighth photograph was taken using

Shutter Speed: 1/100sec

ISO: 400

Aperture: F/5.2

As you can see, using 1/100sec shutter speed, the pendulum is completely frozen in motion. There is no blur to the circular pendulum. The one thing I would change about this image is the brightness. It is too dark for you to see the pendulum clearly.

Overall Opinion:

I really enjoyed this exercise. It took me a while to understand how to change my shutter speeds correctly and balance that with the aperture and iso settings. I used the shutter speed priority setting which allowed me to then only focus on the shutter speed whilst the camera changed the rest for me.

I used my tripod for this exercise as it allowed me to stop any camera shake.

After looking at the final photographs in sequence, you can definitely see how the slowest shutter speed blurs movement and how the faster shutter speed freezes the movement.

My favourite photograph from the sequence would have to be the fourth photograph using 1/10sec. I really like how you can see the image of the pendulum apperaring clearer yet you can still see the movement.

Because I enjoyed this exercise, I decided to try a different setting to see whether or not changing the shutter speed could create an even more interesting photograph. I decided to use a waterfall.

Like the clock, I began with the Slowest shutter speed up to the Fastest shutter speed.

First Photograph:

The first photograph was taken using

Shutter Speed: 1/4sec

ISO: 64

Aperture: F/10

As you can see, using the 1/4sec shutter speed, the water is completely blurred and whitened.

Second Photograph:

The second photograph was taken using

Shutter Speed: 1/6sec

ISO: 64

Aperture: F/10

As you can see, using the 1/6sec shutter speed, the water is completely blurred and whitened, however, you can now begin to see the water in the background becoming more clearer.

Third Photograph:

The third photograph was taken using

Shutter Speed: 1/8sec

ISO: 64

Aperture: F/10

As you can see, using the 1/8sec shutter speed, the water is still blurred and white, however, the waterfall is becoming more defined. You can see lines of white rather than a large white blur. You can see how the movement is beginning to slow.

Fourth Photograph:

The fourth photograph was taken using

Shutter Speed: 1/10sec

ISO: 64

Aperture: F/10

As you can see, using the 1/10sec shutter speed, the water is still blurred and whitened, however, the lines are gradually becoming more defined in the waterfall.

Fifth Photograph:

The fifth photograph was taken using

Shutter Speed: 1/15sec

ISO: 200

Aperture: F/10

As you can see, using the 1/15sec shutter speed, the water is still white, however, the lines are becoming more defined and you can begin to see the movement more.

Sixth Photograph:

The sixth photograph was taken using

Shutter Speed: 1/30sec

ISO: 200

Aperture: F/10

As you can see, using the 1/30sec shutter speed, the water is still white, however, you can see the movement freezing more.

Seventh Photograph:

The seventh photograph was taken using

Shutter Speed: 1/250sec

ISO: 200

Aperture: F/5

As you can see, using the 1/250sec shutter speed, the water is now more clearer and the movement is becoming more frozen.

Eighth Photograph: 

The eighth photograph was taken using

Shutter Speed: 1/640sec

ISO: 400

Aperture: F/5

As you can see, using the 1/640sec shutter speed, the water is completely frozen in movement with only a small amount of blured movement at the bottom.

Overall Opinion:

Using the waterfall gave me the opportunity to show how the change in shutter speed really works. Water allowed me to show how slow shutter speeds can completely blur the image and change the colour to white. You are able to see the movement better when using water as water is a more constant movement than a pendulum on a clock.

My favourite photograph from this series would be the sixth photograph as it shows the movement, however, you can see how it is beginning to freeze. I like how the water is blurred white.

This exercise taught me how to use my shutter speed setting. I will be more confident when taking photographs of moving objects. I will be able to use the techniques I have learnt, to create photographs with movement or frozen movement.

 

 

 

 

 

Exercise Focus with different apertures

This exercise was designed to help you understand how changing your aperture can affect the sharpness of the subject in your photographs and to give you a more precise picture of the depth of field at different apertures.

For this exercise, you were asked to take at least 3 photographs.You were advised to keep the same subject as beforehand. Therefore I used the nail polish bottles. This way I would be able to show the obvious difference between apertures.

The first photograph was to be taken with the widest aperture. The second photograph with the middle aperture and the third photograph to be taken with the smallest aperture.

You were also advised to focus on one thing such as something in the middle, and focus on only that one item for all three photographs. I therefore focused on the green bottle in the middle.

You were advised to change the ISO and Shutter speed in order to keep the exposure the same. However, my camera allowed me to change my aperture, whilst the camera automatically changed the ISO and Shutter speed for me.

First Photograph:

This first photograph was taken using

Aperture: F/3.1

ISO: 64

Shutter Speed: 1/15 sec

Using this shutter speed at F/3.1 and only focusing on the middle bottle, I noticed that the lettering and the outlines of the other bottles are gradually blurred, Only slightly, but you can see difference.

Second Photograph:

This second photograph was taken using

Aperture: F/6.4

ISO: 64

Shutter Speed: 1/5 sec

Using this shutter speed at F/6.4 and only focusing on the middle bottle, I noticed that the lettering and the outlines of the other bottles are slightly more defined and become more clearer, you can see difference. The only problem is the photograph is a bit darker than the first one.

Third Photograph:

This third photograph was taken using

Aperture: F/11

ISO: 64

Shutter Speed: 0.8 sec

I did have some trouble taking this photograph. The only way I could use my F/11 aperture meant I had to zoom quite far into my image. This meant I had to move farther away from the bottles. I put my camera on my tripod and focused in on the middle bottle using F/11. As you can see, the photograph is at a different angle.

Using this shutter speed at F/11 and only focusing on the middle bottle, I noticed that the lettering and the outlines of the other bottles are more defined and more clearer, you can definitely see difference.

Project focus: Have a print made from each of the photographs. Draw on each photograph, where the limit of sharpness is. This will give you a more precise understanding of the depth of field at different apertures.

Photograph 1:

In my opinion, The limit of sharpness is from the lids of the bottles upwards towards to background. The design on my wallpaper in the background is blurry and not so prominent. Also the bottles towards the end are blurred. This shows that at a wide aperture, the depth of field is smaller and the backgrounds become less defined.

Photograph 2:

In my opinion, the limit of sharpness is mainly the background. The top of the lids are becoming more prominent, aswell as the bottles towards the end. However, even though the background is still blurred, you can see the pattern on my wallpaper becoming more defined. The pattern is darker and more clearer. This shows that having the aperture midway at around F/6.4, the depth of field becomes more bigger. Items or patterns in my case, become more clearer, although not everything is ‘super’ clear. The background still has a ‘soft’ tone to it.

Photograph 3:

In my opinion, the limit of sharpness is the same as above. The same as the second photograph. However, there are changes to the background. Even though I had to move my camera, you can still see that the pattern on my wallpaper is becoming more defined, you can also see the pattern on my white wallpaper at the bottom.

This shows that having your aperture at the smallest opening, allows the background to be more detailed. It has the most depth of field.

Overall Opinion:

I enjoyed this exercise. I was able to use the techniques I had learnt in the previous aperture exercise. However, I did have some problems setting my aperture to F/11 on my camera. It took me a while and then I had to move my camera and use a tripod in order to take my F/11 Photograph. Once I realised what I had to do, I was able to look at my final images and understand how changing your aperture setting can effect your depth of field.

This knowledge of how to use the aperture setting to change my background will allow me to be more confident when taking a photograph if I need to single out only one item in the photograph or if I am to include everything.

Exercise Focus with a set aperture

This exercise was designed to help you understand how to use your aperture settings on your camera.

Project focus: When you focus on something, its image is made sharp; if you focus beyond it or in front of the image, it will look soft. When your photographs are processed, compare them.Notice first how the sharp focus draws attention and also how a sharp subject stands out clear against an out-of-focus background.

You were asked to take at least 2-3 photographs showing the difference in apertures. Your scene had to have sort of depth such as trees or a row of cars.

I wanted something which was colourful and had writing on it; therefore I chose nail polish bottles. The writing on the labels would allow me to focus on something and the different colours would stand out.

I am currently using my Fujifilm Finepix S2950 camera.

I kept the aperture setting at F/3.1 but let the camera change the Iso and Shutter speed.

First Photograph:

This first photograph was taken only focusing on the front nail polish bottle. I used the green rectangular viewfinder which appears on the screen, in order to focus only on the front bottle.

Using the set F/3.1 aperture, the bottle and the writing were mainly in focus. The bottles behind were gradually softening and blurring.

The settings for this photograph are:

Aperture: F/3.1

Shutter Speed: 1/52 sec

ISO: 200

Second Photograph:

This second photograph was taken whilst only focusing on the middle green bottle. Again I used the green rectangular viewfinder which appears on the screen, in order to focus only on the middle green bottle.

Using the set F/3.1 aperture, the bottle and the writing were mainly in focus. The bottles in front were gradually softening and blurring. However, the bottles behind the middle one, were gradually becoming more clearer.

The settings for this photograph are:

Aperture: F/3.1

Shutter Speed: 1/50 sec

ISO: 400

Third Photograph:

This third photograph was taken whilst only focusing on the two end bottles. Again I used the green rectangular viewfinder which appears on the screen, in order to focus only on the end bottles.

Using the set F/3.1 aperture, the bottle and the writing on the lid were mainly in focus. The bottles in front were completely out of focus and soft in tone.

I did have to move my camera for this one photograph as I was unable to focus with the green viewfinder on the last two bottles until I was positioned differently.However, I did keep the aperture setting the same.

The settings for this photograph are:

Aperture: F/3.1

Shutter Speed: 1/60 sec

ISO: 400

Project focus: When your photographs are processed, compare them. Which version do you prefer? Notice first how the sharp focus draws attention and also how a sharp subject stands out clear against an out-of-focus background.

After looking at the three photographs, the one I prefer the most is the Third photograph. I prefer this one the most as it draws your eye to the end bottle. You feel as though you are part of the photograph. It’s almost a continuation of your vision and what you see through your eye.

Overall Opinion:

I did have some trouble with this exercise at the beginning. It took me a while to get the correct aperture settings along with the ISO and Shutter speeds. In the end, I understood that I needed to use my Aperture priority setting. This way I was able to keep my aperture at F/3.1 whilst letting the camera change the ISO and Shutter speed.

Another problem I encountered was that my small green viewfinder would not show up on the screen, and I was unable to focus on either the front or middle bottles. I realised that a few of my bottles were out of line and off-centre. Once I had changed the positions, the rectangular box came up, enabling me to focus on the needed bottle.

Once I understood how to change or keep the settings the same in order to create the photograph I needed, I began enjoying this exercise. It has taught me how to use my camera’s settings. In the future I will be more confident in taking photographs of items which may be at an acute angle, as I will now be able to figure out what settings I will need in order to focus in on an item or perhaps keep some of the items blurred.

Exercise Focal Length and Angle of View

This first exercise was set to help you understand  focal length.

The exercise was to take pictures of the same view using different lenses and different focal lengths in order to understand how close or far from the subject the image produced had to be in order to be the same size.

I am currently using my Fujifilm Finepix S2950 camera.

It is a digital camera with a zoom lens. The focal length is f=5.0 – 90.0 mm, equivalent to 28 – 504mm on a 35 mm camera and the full-aperture is F3.1(Wide) – F5.6 (Telephoto).

The first photograph to be taken was to point the camera at any scene, keep both eyes open, one looking through the viewfinder and  the other looking directly at the scene.It had to be of standard focal length (approx 20-25mm).

First Photograph:

This is the first photograph. I took this using a tripod.
The tree was the same size in the viewfinder as it was when I was looking at it.
Taken at 5mm focal length.
Focal Length (in 35 mm film), 29mm
ISO 200
Exposure 1/80 sec
Aperture F/4.2
This was my ‘standard focal length’ image, however, it is also my widest view as I can’t change my lens of my camera. Therefore, this one photograph is my ‘Standard and Widest focal length view’.

Second Photograph:

This is the second photograph, again taken using my tripod.

The third photograph needed to show a section of the scene larger in the viewfinder.

I zoomed into the tree section as I liked the shape of the branches.

Taken at focal length.12mm
Focal Length (in 35 mm film), 72mm
ISO 200
Exposure 1/80 sec
Aperture F/4.2

The Third photograph:

As I have one photograph which is my Standard focal length and Widest view, I decided to take a photograph at its farthest zoom point.

This photograph was taken at:

Taken at focal length.85mm
Focal Length (in 35 mm film), 282mm
ISO 800
Exposure 1/85 sec
Aperture F/5.6

Overall opinion:

I did have some trouble with this exercise as I don’t have a DSLR camera, and was unable to change the lens in order to stop my standard and widest focal length being the same.

Therefore, I added an extra photograph and showed my farthest zoom point.

As my setting was a large tree which was up a hill, I was unable to complete the exercise which asked for you to hold up an A4 print of the standard view photograph and measure the distance from your eye, to your ‘comfortable viewing’ distance.

This would be an exercise I would have to try to repeat in order to me to find the ‘comfortable viewing’ distance

Introduction: Project; Getting to know your camera.

The first project was called ‘Getting to know your camera’.

This project is to help you become ‘One’ with your camera. Not many people read through their instruction booklet which comes with your camera, and if im 100% honest, I have only read it through once or twice as my camera is near enough exactly the same as my older one I had a few years ago so I know how to use the manual settings.

However, this project was set to help you learn how to use the Shutter speed and aperture settings, as well as getting to know how light can effect these settings if you don’t get the ISO correct.

The first exercise in this project was ‘Focal length and angle of view’.

Beginning The Art Of Photography Course

I recieved my parcel containing my OCA Course pack on 10th June 2012. I was really excited to open it and see what kind of work I would be set to do for my course. I have recently completed my 2 year A-Level course in which I studied Photography. I enjoyed the course a lot whilst I studied it as an A-Level and realised that I would want to continue my studies in Photography and hopefully continue with a career in the Photography business.
I applied for the OCA BA Hons Degree course after reading through the feedback about it on their website. I wanted a course which would teach me new techniques and would test the knowledge I already have about Photography. I want to feel more confident when taking photographs and be able to have a better understanding of how the technical side of a camera can alter or enhance your images. I want to complete the full BA Hons Degree so I will be able to use it for a career in either Forensic/Crime scene Photography or Photography in the Royal Air Force.

I don’t currently belong to any camera clubs, however, I know there are a few in my area, and I will be contacting a few of them to see if I can join. I’m hoping they would also be able to help me with any queries or doubts I may have with any of my Photography work.

The only down side at the moment is that I don’t own a DSLR camera. I only have a Fujifilm Finepix S2950. It does have the same settings as a DSLR which is really useful and the photographs I have taken before have come out fantastic, However I have noticed that some of the manual controls such as setting my aperture only have a limited choice. This is somewhat of a problem especially as I need it for some of the projects. I do own multiple 35mm film cameras and a small point and shoot digital camera.

I will begin my OCA Learning log/Blog with the first set of projects and the first assignment which is Photography 1: The Art Of Photography.

Thanks for reading.
Chantelle